In-vitro aquarium plants
Plants, plus a friend.
No pests. No algae. Know what’s next.
What’s in the cup, and what isn’t.
The plant never leaves a sealed vessel until you open it. Everything below follows from that one fact.
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Sealed clean, sealed safe.
No snails. No planaria.
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Zero algae.
From day one.
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Nothing toxic, ever.
No pesticides. Safe for shrimp.
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Exactly what’s on the label.
No surprise hybrids.
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Ready in minutes.
Just rinse the gel and plant.
How the plants are grown.
Every cup starts as a few millimetres of tissue taken from a mother plant, cleaned, and placed on sterile nutrient gel. From there it is divided and re-divided until there is enough to fill a cup.
Sterilisation is the step that decides everything. Too weak and the culture is lost to bacteria within a fortnight. Too long and the bleach kills the growing tip before it has started — which is the failure most small labs never diagnose, because a dead explant and a contaminated one look equally like nothing happening.
Our figures per species sit on each entry in the plant range, under Plant info. They came out of our own batch log, not a paper.
- Wk −4 to 0
- Emersed conditioning Mother stock is grown out of water for two to four weeks. Emersed tissue carries far less surface contamination, so the bleach step can be gentler.
- Day 0
- Sterilisation and explanting Nodes and runner tips are trimmed, surface-sterilised at the listed concentration and contact time, rinsed, and placed on media in the flow hood.
- Wk 1–2
- Establishment and quarantine New cultures sit under observation. Anything cloudy or fuzzy is pulled and logged against its batch. Only clean vessels go forward.
- Wk 3–8
- Multiplication Shoots are divided onto fresh media every four to six weeks. Cytokinin stays deliberately low — enough to push shoots, not enough to cause the deformed growth that shows up later in the tank.
- Wk 9–12
- Rooting and final cup Plantlets move to rooting media in the cup they ship in, grow to saleable density, then are sealed and labelled with the batch code.
Become a stockist.
We supply aquarium shops, aquascaping studios and growers. We are a small lab scaling up from pilot runs, so we would rather start you on a trial tray than promise volume we cannot hold. Tell us the species and the quantity you move in a month and we will tell you honestly what we can supply.
- Trial tray first, so you can test the stock before committing
- Standing monthly reservation once we know your rhythm
- Unbranded cups for shops that apply their own label
- Batch sheet included with every delivery
Trade enquiries
Send an enquiryGet the right start
What to do in the first hour, and the first three weeks.
How do I plant an in-vitro cup?
Lift the plantlets out, rinse the gel away under lukewarm water until nothing slippery remains, then divide the mass into small portions. Leftover gel feeds bacteria and clouds a new tank, so rinse it properly. Plant the portions a few centimetres apart and let them grow together.
Why do the plants look so small and pale?
In-vitro plantlets live on sugar rather than light, so they arrive soft and light green. They firm up and darken within two to three weeks of being submerged under normal aquarium lighting. Small is expected. Mushy or brown is not — tell us if you see that.
How long can I keep an unopened cup?
Several weeks at room temperature and out of direct sun. Keep it upright and sealed. Once opened, plant the same day.
Is it really free of snails and algae?
Yes, while the seal is intact. Sterilisation and culture leave nothing alive in the vessel except the plant. What happens after you open it depends on your own tank and tools.
Can you culture a species that is not in the range?
Sometimes. Send us the species and we will tell you whether we already have a protocol, whether it is worth developing one, or whether it is a plant that simply does not behave in vitro. Development work runs a few months before there is anything to sell.